This year’s Loy Krathong has special significance for residents as it heralds a fresh start after months of battling floods.
Terri Roamer
Monsoon rains are over, the cool season beckons and millions of Thais across the nation celebrate the Loy Krathong Festival.
This year there is a difference. Thais from every walk of life are facing unprecedented flooding that threatens the economy across the vast central plains and even touches the capital, the commercial lifeline to a global economy.
On the full-moon night of the 12th lunar month, families and families gather on the banks of rivers and lakes to float miniature rafts crafted from banana tree trunks and leaves crafted in the shape of a lotus flower.
Decked out with candles, flowers and joss sticks, the delicate vessels are floated on the river currents or blown by the wind across still ponds.
This year, the 10 November festival has special meaning for Thai citizens. They are praying for a rebirth and the forgiveness of the water goddess for sins of omission and commission.
As they launch, these decorative, lotus shaped boats they will ponder over a devastating a flood unseen in the Land of Smiles for over 70 years.
Their thoughts will turn to the relatives and friends scattered throughout the country who sought refuge from the floods. Their prayers will be for a better future and a chance to rebuild their homes
They will touch the deeper significance of this festival. It conveys the hope that a simple gesture of floating a tiny raft guided by wind and water currents will cast aside past sins and herald a new beginning.
Celebrations in Bangkok and neighbouring provinces have been curtailed, or cancelled, as residents deal with a deep sadness, hidden behind smiles and a brave resolve that has been evident through the three-month crisis.
Out of respect for residents who are suffering the Tourism Authority of Thailand cancelled most of its Bangkok events related to the festival.
But there is always a silver lining to the worst tragedies and this is now evident in Ayutthaya, 70 km north of the capital, where the Loy Krathong festival literally opens the door to recovery and restoration.
For the residents of Ayutthaya the sight of hundreds of relief workers and supporters standing side-by-side to float Kratongs and mount a clean-up campaign indicates just one substantial heartening fact.
The water goddess has smiled and months of suffering will end soon.
Just a day ahead of the celebration the first tour group returned to the world heritage town to visit the historical temple sites. It was first credible indicator that better times are ahead for this former royal capital famed for its fabled temples and palace ruins. Protected and recognised as UNESCO World Heritage sites, teams from the Fine Arts Department will move in to begin restoration estimated to cost over Bt100 million.
With the arrival of the full moon night,10 November, town folk could mark the beginning of this massive clean-up that will continue for months to come to restore temples and historical ruins.
Tagged “We care for Ayutthaya” around 300 rolled up their sleeves to get the clean-up campaign rolling in earnest.
They face a monumental task over the next 12 months as over 500 temples will need to be restored as well as access roads. After seeing these priceless heritage sites inundated by metre deep water residents and relief workers are now committed to restoring their historical town brick-by-brick.
Loy Krathong has its roots in legend and references to another ancient royal capital, Sukhothai, 400 km north of Bangkok.
According to legend the festival was first celebrated in the 14th century by members of the royal family resident in Sukhothai as a gesture of worship to the water goddess, Phra Mae Khongkha .
They floated the decorative banana leaf boats to ask forgiveness for polluting life-sustaining rivers.
This act of floating the candle raft was symbolic of letting go of all grudges, anger and defilements, to allow for a fresh start to the new lunar year.
Today, Sukhothai remains one of the most popular venue to celebrate the festival against the backdrop of ancient temple ruins in the town’s World Heritage park.
Sukhothai is a rewarding destination to visit anytime of the year, but shines with a romantic almost mystical ambience on special occasions such as Loy Krathong.
The town is close to two airports; the privately run airport of Bangkok Airways and the provincial airport in Phitsanulok.
There are two flights daily to Sukhothai’s airport and the visit can be combined with an interesting agro-tour at a site right next to the airport. Here, local residents show you how to plant rice, look after farm animals and tend to orchards. It is a valuable learning experience for visitors who want to understand rural life close-up as well as study Sukhothai’s heritage.
Venues to celebrate the festival.
Sukhothai Loy Krathong & Candle Festival 2011 Sukhothai province 8 to 10 November in Muang district;
Loy Krathong Sai Festival and Krathong Sai for the Kings Cup Contest 2011 will be held in Tak province 9 to 12 November;
Loy Krathong festival Mae Klong in Samut Songkram province,10 November at King Rama 2 Royal Garden, Amphawa district;
Lantern Festival, Colourful of Southern Cities in Songkhla province from 1 November to 28 February at Park of Hat Yai, Hat Yai district;
Yee Peng Festival Chiang Mai province, 8 to 11 November in Chang Klan Road, Chiang Mai Night Bazar and Muang district.
This is the northern version that has its origins in ancient Lanna heritage. One of its distinct features is the candle lanterns that rise in the sky on hot air trapped within the rice paper lantern. Thousands of them are launched during the full moon night.
Next year’s Loy Krathong Festival will be celebrated much later in the month, 28 November, 2012. Colour it in the diary now and plan details of a heritage tour that will take in world heritage towns with a memorable finale in Sukhothai to celebrate Loy Krathong on the full-moon night.
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